One of the most gratifying aspects of cooking, for me, is when I manage to spin a random smattering of ingredients into a memorably delicious meal. These past several weeks, that ability has felt like more of a superpower than ever before. This recipe is one such creation which turned out to be so good it merits a spot in regular rotation. It feels fancy, mainly because of the saffron that gives the sauce its regal golden color and intoxicating aroma, but it’s really quite practical.
Saffron is a luxury ingredient, sure, with a reputation of being the most expensive spice in the world. But you only need a pinch of it in this dish, a few dollars’ worth, so it’s ultimately a small splurge that adds untold glamour to the otherwise relatively inexpensive ingredients. Since bringing home an ornate jar with saffron from a trip to the Middle East last year, I have been joyfully experimenting with different ways to use it. With that in mind, plus a cod fillet in the freezer, a beautiful fennel in the fridge and some overripe tomatoes, I felt like I was on to something, flavor-wise. I toyed with the idea of a fish stew, but with the weather heating up, that wasn’t quite hitting the spot. Then I spied a box of linguine in my cupboard, and it all came together.
I got the pot of water going for the pasta, and once it was hot, stirred a few tablespoons of it with the saffron to dissolve the spice so it would disperse more evenly when added to the sauce. I sauteed the fennel in some olive oil (if you don’t have fennel, sweet onion would work, albeit with a different flavor profile), added a little garlic, and then white wine (any dry white wine you enjoy drinking will do — it can be an inexpensive one). Once the wine cooked down a bit, I added the tomatoes and let them simmer just long enough to lose their shape. In went the saffron, the cod, which I had cut into bite-size pieces (any firm white fish fillet will work) and a splash of lemon juice.
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Once the fish turned opaque, I added the cooked linguine to the skillet with the sauce, tossing to marry everything, and garnished it with the fennel fronds. I had expected the dish to be good, but it turned out better than good: It was a glorious, company-worthy dinner my family devoured.
Hopefully, in not too-distant a future we can share this pasta in person with friends.
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